The Hero

Nobody knew Mish’s boyfriend. Nobody knew where she was from or where she lived either, which made us pretty much useless when the cops bothered showing up.

Bubbles

by

Corinne Engber

Season Categories Published
MP803 Fiction

Jan 09, 2024


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In the months afterward, I thought of her every time I got high. Which is to say: often, but not as often as everybody else I know. 

Discussion of her bled into every post-close blunt rotation. Sitting on Teddy’s crusty beige carpet, we tried talking about other things—tattoos, girlfriends, how a grill guy two towns over knocked up his teenage coworker—but mentioning work inevitably led either to speculation on her whereabouts or, if we were still too tired or sober, a thick silence. 

We spent weeks like this, whispering on backdoor smoke breaks or crowded three deep in Cheyanna’s dusty backseat on the way to the bars. Local mythology to be chewed over and over like gristle, picked apart beneath clicking lighters by line cooks and burrito rollers whose shifts never overlapped with hers by more than fifteen minutes. As soon as shit started burning, her name was there, in shallow puffs and hums: Creepy Mish. Mish the freak. 

Misha, Misha, Misha.


Mish joined us halfway through her junior year. When pressed, nobody could remember what she studied—the only kid who’d ever shared a class with her at the nearby university no-call no-showed after two weeks—but we were all pretty sure it was something artsy. Or maybe international affairs. Crybaby Elsie insisted she was pre-med, but she also thought the walk-in was soundproof enough to hide her fifty daily screams, so nobody took her seriously.

Anyway, it didn’t really matter. Mish had good weekend availability, had worked at three other chain locations for three previous summers, and turned up showered and on time for both interviews. This was more than enough for the general manager, whose prerequisites for cashiers began and ended with “tits yes, crying no.”

Mish wasn’t a crier, but she didn’t have much in the way of anything else, either. Most of the other cashiers were lean and pretty, sleek from years of volleyball or lacrosse. They wore their hair in high, tight ponytails fed over their hats’ Velcro closures and carried ice buckets from the back with both hands, one at a time. Mish was scrawny and bald as a tea egg, with black fish eyes. She shaved her head well into the winter, hid the stubble and the rest of her inside a ratty hoodie in the cool hours before the doors opened. Months back, a short-lived manager asked why she didn’t just grow it out.

“Because my boyfriend pulls it,” she said casually. Mish was always saying shit like that casually. “Behind.”


She was an all right cashier. Sometimes she’d fuck around with the customers a little too much and eat her foot. Dog somebody out for wearing a Reagan t-shirt, conveniently forget to complete transactions for crustpunks and working moms. Early on, somebody taught her to pad the tip jar with a couple ones on top of a crushed paper cup to make it look full—to a customer, an empty jar was probably empty for a reason—and check the change counter every so often for forgotten coins. 

On Midwest minimum wage, the jar was serious business. Like, the difference between putting a dollar fifty of gas in your car or hoofing it down the side of the highway in the dark serious. Whoever taught her the cup trick also taught her the prettiest, sweetest cashiers made the best money, so she showed up to every closing shift with a brand-new face, plucked and contoured for an hour before the mirror on her bedroom floor. In the summer, when business was slow, she wore tiny shorts, lined bags of chips on the lowest shelf, and bent at the waist to grab them. So obvious, dinner and a show, but it was hard to make fun when we all went home at 1 a.m. five or ten or twenty bucks richer.

She must have needed the money. We all did, but she was the one answering the phones, looking up at bored dads and grads through eyelashes caked thick with mascara. She was the one collecting numbers on brown napkins, scribbled with pens borrowed unasked from the cup beside her register. More than once, we walked together to her beat-up little car in case the guy waiting in the dining room followed her out.

“Your boyfriend can’t pick you up?” I asked her once while we were running trash, holding a dripping bag at arm’s length. Laden with bags of her own, she leapt back from the arc of lime and bean juice as I heaved mine one-handed into the dumpster. Under the streetlights, her eyes looked like painted tunnels.

“No,” she said. “Keep holding that open. I need both hands.”


Nobody knew Mish’s boyfriend. Nobody knew where she was from or where she lived either, which made us pretty much useless when the cops bothered showing up. I remember one of the line guys—Cody? Jody?—was holding an eighth in his jacket for after close, and when the dogs came he pretended to get suddenly squeamish so they would let him into the bathroom to flush it. Like he was just now getting sick over something he’d seen forty minutes ago.

According to Cheyanna, who fucked a lot of cops, the address Mish put on her application was a bust, too. Mish’s roommate hadn’t seen her in weeks and it wasn’t like campus police were gonna sit around staking the place out. City police weren’t either (“Wow, really moving up in the world, Cheyanna. What’s next, the FBI?” said Teddy the grill opener, which earned him a punch) and the trail went cold there. No pings in the system, no checkered past.

“But for real though?” Teddy ashed his cigarette onto the asphalt, breathing clouds. “It’s always the quiet ones. Remember that time we invited her out and she blew into the bong?”

“Oh my god, she did not,” said Crybaby Elsie, who was on keto and eating baby carrots with her mouth open. “What a fucking freak.” Then: “Don’t fuckin’ look at me like that, K.”

I wasn’t looking at her like anything, just smoking at the small and overcast sky. Across the chain-link, the Starbucks drive-thru line stretched long into the adjacent parking lot. Usually, when school was in session, college students trooped between them and us in packs, with a line to both doors from open to close. A positive feedback loop: caffeine to pick them up, burrito to lay them out. Eat, sleep, fuck, get high. Like foxes and dolphins, fighting to placate their oversized brains.

Now, though. Now they were lining up down the street at Wendy’s instead.


The night of the bong incident wasn’t the first time Mish had gone out with us. She’d swung by the bars for a drink once or twice, said something off-color and dipped before last call. Honestly, I’m not even sure Teddy meant to invite her, but she showed up to his place at midnight with her makeup rubbed off all the same. I stepped out for a smoke a couple minutes afterwards and Irish goodbyed when it made my migraine worse instead of better, so everything that happened next was relayed to me later in detail. The setting was easy: Teddy’s greasy apartment. Cheap furniture, dead houseplants. Six people swapping germs on blunts rolled in tropical wrappers. Half an empty two liter floating in the kitchen sink. The bong came around and Mish, who’d been talking incessantly about one of her tattoos, took it by the neck and, with all the confidence in the world, blew the bowl clear across the room. According to Cheyanna, who’d been in the splash zone, a full foot of carpet was drenched in ancient resin.

“Don’t take this the wrong way,” Teddy said, half to me and half to the silent figure shoveling ice behind the dish sink the following afternoon, “but that was the funniest shit I’ve ever seen in my life.”

It really wasn’t a big deal. The closers ribbed her for a few days and then Cody-Jody became the new clown for cutting his fingertip off right before an inspection. But Mish didn’t ask to tag along anymore. She still comped meals and dogged out customers, still put herself on display to survive the cavern between paychecks, but the embarrassment stayed on her.

She loved us. I know she did. She’d come back from her break laden with half a dozen Starbucks cups, walk into the back twice after close so she wouldn’t miss anybody doling out tips. “Bonus from the parking lot,” she said once, dropping a twenty into the jar. I remember Cheyanna asked why she told us, why she didn’t just keep it. Mish just blinked those black eyes.

“Why would I do that?” she asked. Sounded like she meant it, too.


What happened was the store had this curved bench that separated the front line from the main dining room. About armpit height on Mish, maybe a little lower on me. Bleached wood on top and on the seat to match the walls, and corrugated steel studded with rivets on the back. A lawsuit waiting to happen, just itching for some kid to trip on his shoelace so it could tear into his cherubic blond skull. A couple feet down, pitted concrete floors smooth from three weeks of Norwalk bleach scrubbing.

We were just starting the dinner rush, 5:45 to 7:15. All us animals sweating behind the sneeze guard and shouting over corporate’s looping playlist of Songs to Kill Yourself To. Mish, trapped at the register for an uninterrupted hour, ready to receive the masses. The first face in arm’s reach.

That evening, I was about ten hours into what was supposed to be an eight-hour shift, with another five, maybe six to go. Too tired and hot to think. Laying meat on autopilot. Barking back calls, watching piles of meat in quarter pans diminish in the reflection of the sneeze guard. Slugging warm Red Bull between breaths and dreaming of the cigarette I’d smoke in exactly thirty-six minutes.

And then some guy walked up to the register. Crew cut, red baseball hat. Indians jersey. Couldn’t tell you anything else.

There’s this funny thing about people. If you see enough of them, you start forgetting you are one. They melt together into a seething, indolent slurry. Not like you, though. You’re different. Under the most specific of circumstances, you actually possess the innate capacity to be a hero. At the last moment, a switch would flip and you’d catch the baby, break up the fight, throat chop the shooter. It would be you.

But it wasn’t. For the next few minutes, we were all useless together.


I saw Mish in the wild exactly once, about a month before that guy put his hands on the counter. With nothing but cornfields and meth labs in every direction, kids got creative and one of the locals had incredibly cool parents. They let him convert their unfinished basement into a venue for bands nobody had heard of, friends three times removed touring flyover states to play crowds of twenty, max. I’d been there since the opener, so close I could smell the amps. Drenched and seeing stars, teeth ringing from the physical force of noise. Sweat and cigarette smoke transfigured the air to living ambrosia.

Mish stood at the edge of the pit by the pebbly merch table. La Croix in one hand, CD folded in a makeshift paper sleeve in the other. She moved like a reed rooted to the lakeshore, rose to her toes, back down in time. Behind her, graffiti climbed to the ceiling in a technicolor halo.

I should’ve said something. Got her attention and pulled her into the crush of bodies. Been the hero. But then it got rowdy again and somebody’s boot heel raked my shin and by the time I thought of her again, it was morning.


What happened was Mish had a bad day. First thirty minutes of her shift, she answered the phone, told the guy on the other line something he didn’t want to hear and then hung up without a word after he shouted “FUCKING CUNT!” loud enough to carry into the kitchen. Then the Gourmand—easily our worst and somehow most loyal regular—appeared, demanding his steak cooked to charcoal briquettes and his salsa sans onion. Must’ve been a full moon because he dug into Mish too, even though hers were probably the only hands that hadn’t touched his flavorless burrito. Outside, it got dark quick and the sky dumped gallons of stinking rain for hours. That meant wrestling slimy anti-slip mats from beneath the soda machine in the moments between customers. By peak, back of house was a sauna. Everybody who came down the line was drenched and pissed and looking for someone to snip at for that tiny power trip.

Mish had just turned away from the register for a second to comment on the half-eaten chicken nuggets she’d just found beneath a table (“Where did they get chicken nuggets from?!”) when he arrived. College boy with his whole life in front of him. He walked up to the counter, waited patiently for Mish to turn around and then, smiling, wrapped an arm around the tip jar.

It was not a subtle move. The jar was a stainless steel cylinder with bills blooming from its mouth. Despite the rush, almost everything inside was small change. Nine bucks, forty-eight cents exactly. Enough for one meal here, if you skipped the drink.

It was ours, though.

What happened next happened fast. Guy turned on his heel to run for the door, but Mish was already around the counter. She caught a fistful of his jersey, Chief Wahoo’s grinning face crushed between her fingers, and he went down. Face-first, with an awful crunch, into the corrugated bench. Coins flew in arcs like rice at a wedding.

He wasn’t screaming, though. Not until Mish got him on his back and pinned his shoulders between her knees. Rice in the treads of her nonslip shoes, a gash through his right cheek opening into flesh like lean, raw pork chop. When he did make noise, it came out sharp—a high squeal between his teeth. 

And Mish didn’t say a word. She just nestled each thumb into the pink corners of his eyes and pushed.

He should’ve been able to fight her off, nearly did until the pain and shock made his muscles seize. Any of us could’ve wrestled her to the bleached floor, but his face was swallowing her thumbs to the knuckle. A wash of brown water, displaced by the weight, rose from the sodden mat beneath them to meet the hot, gelatinous cascade filling his ears. Humid air cut by the sounds coming out of him.

It couldn’t have been more than twenty seconds before Mish pulled her fingers from the pits with a sucking noise. She was breathing with her whole body, dripping black sweat from her eyelashes. Blood covered the first two fingers on both hands. Impossible to tell what covered the thumbs.

Gaze to the floor, she rose and carefully lifted two sodden bills from the growing puddle. Ran a wrist across her forehead. Stepped over the howling body. Silent, she clocked out on the register with one pruning fingertip and left through the back.

Only after the door had closed did anybody think to call the cops.


We never got to ask why she did it. What was going through her mind, what drove her to torpedo her life and disfigure another human being over a pile of spare change. And even if we could, were there words to describe the enormity of her love? Could she even begin without returning to the first instance of herself, without vomiting every living moment in reverse?

How else was she supposed to show us what she meant?


I worked at that location for another eighteen months. We hustled everybody out after the cops left and deck scrubbed the stain best we could, but the foam was still coming up strychnine pink days later. Finally, corporate gave and closed us for a couple weeks to put in new tile. By then, they were training a whole new cohort—ponytails, high-waisted jeans. Vaping mint pods in puffer vests and asking vaguely for details until the GM banned discussion of the event from the store. 

Eventually, they cut my hours and I skipped. College towns get smaller every year, and there are plenty of grills in the world. But I kept seeing ghosts of them, all over the new and unfamiliar city. Someone sitting opposite me on the train with Teddy’s bulldog jaw or Crybaby Elsie’s blue eyes. Cheyanna’s hair, burnt straight and Kool-Aid red, waving like a beacon over the commuter crowd. Once, I even swore the Gourmand sat beside me in a dive bar until he ordered a steak bloody.

And every so often, it’s her. In line at Trader Joe’s, or examining a six-pack through the frosted cooler door. The silhouette of her face in profile. The shorn nape of her neck. A thousand years later and still the thrill goes through me, an ice-in-oil hiss of adrenaline, until I see the rest and remember where I am. Eating, sleeping, getting high. Like foxes and dolphins. Living one animal life in the forest of everyone else. ▩


12 Finger-Lickin’ Vegetarian Recipes

by

Elise Auger Lizzie Wheeler Sam Anderson

Season Categories Published
MP205 Life

Mar 30, 2020


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Sam, Elise, and Lizzie are three high school best friends living in Toronto, Oakland, and Brooklyn. We grew up cooking together and have started sharing recipes as a way to stay connected during times of isolation. These are excerpts from what’ll become our cookbook.


Sam’s Favorite Sandwich

4 oz smoked tofu
A bit of cheddar (If you can’t find smoked tofu, try regular tofu and smoked cheddar—just something’s gotta be smoky.)
Two slices of sourdough (or your favorite bread)
Sauerkraut
Spicy pickled peppers
Some sort of oil for the pan, canola, sesame, sunflower, whatever you like
Soy sauce
A 12” heavy-bottom pan and a lid that can sort of fit over top

Slice tofu into ¼” thick slices. Slice cheese into ⅛” slices. Oil the pan, and turn on the stove to medium or medium-low. Place the tofu and bread onto the oiled pan before the oil gets really hot. This gives the oil a minute to bind to the bread and tofu before things start cooking. Then put cheese on each slice of bread and drizzle some soy sauce onto the tofu. Delicious things will happen if some soy sauce gets on the pan as well. Cover everything with a big lid and let the heat do its thing for about five minutes. 

When you hear things popping and sizzling, check on the tofu. You’re looking for browning. When it’s browned, flip it to brown the other side. Keep an eye on your bread. When the cheese is melted and the second side of your tofu is close to being done, take the bread off the pan and place on a plate. When the tofu looks irresistible, get it off that pan and on to the cheesy bread! Then pile on your sauerkraut and pickled peppers (be generous, imagine you are at a NY Deli), close it up and enjoy! Napkins will be necessary. 


Pear Salad with Jammy Shallot Dressing

Pear salad:
One pear
Variety of strong, bitter greens. Ideally frisee, radicchio, and endive, but kale works too.
Pomegranate seeds as garnish
*Optional: cheese (shaved manchego or gorgonzola both work well)

Jammy shallot dressing:
One large shallot
White sugar
Cider vinegar
Dijon mustard (grainy or not)
Salt
Apricot Jam
Olive oil

Quick pickle shallots by slicing them thinly into rounds and mixing into your ideal briny mixture of vinegar, salt, and sugar (to taste). Let sit minimum 10 min, but can be overnight. Make sure that the brine slightly covers the shallots.

Mix a heaping tablespoon of apricot jam and a teaspoon of dijon into shallots and brine, topping with however much olive oil you choose. Texture should be thicker and jammier than your usual dressing! Dress the greens until they’re glistening, then top with sliced pear, cheese, and pomegranate seeds.


Celery and Cabbage Soup
Serves 6

4 tablespoons butter
2 onions, finely diced (3-4 cups)
1 small or ½ of a large green cabbage, chopped into thin ribbons (roughly 4 cups)
½ head of celery (roughly 2 cups chopped very thinly)
2 cups of water
2 cups milk
Zest of 1 lemon

Sweat the onion in butter with a little salt until translucent (no browning!), add garlic and sweat for a few more minutes. Add the celery, season again with salt and pepper and sweat for 10 minutes. Then add the cabbage, milk, and water and cook covered over very low heat until cabbage and celery has completely softened, about 40 minutes. Blend the soup with the lemon zest until velvety smooth.


FAST Sesame Soba
Serves 3 hungry people

3 bundles of dried Soba
½ cup frozen edamame, shelled
½ cup sweet corn
1-2 sliced fresh red chilis, if you like heat

Sauce:
3 TBS tahini
1 TBS mirin
1 TBS soy sauce
1 TBS rice vinegar
1 TSP roasted sesame oil

Boil three liters of water. Add the Soba and cook as long as the package instructs, around seven minutes. While the noodles are cooking, gently defrost your edamame. Don’t overheat them, they’ll get pasty and gross. I like to soak them in hot water for ten minutes or put them in water in the microwave on the “defrost” setting. When the soba is done, drain and rinse with cold water. Sprinkle with sesame oil to keep the noodles from sticking together.

Mix up your sauce, balancing the ingredients to your palate (mirin= sugar, vinegar = acid, soy = salt, tahini = fat). 

Dress your noodles and serve into three dishes. Top with edamame, corn, and chilis. 


Gazpacho (breadless recipe)

1/4 or 1/5 of a yellow onion depending on the size
1/3 of an english cucumber, peeled
3ish cloves garlic depending on your taste and the size of the cloves
1 carrot
1/3 of a green pepper (bell peppers work, also red bell peppers if you want it sweeter, or the skinnier Spanish green peppers called padron)
4-5 quartered tomatoes (vine tomatoes are best)
big pinch of sea salt
pepper
10 second slow pour of olive oil (it’s a lot). This is assuming you have a spout on the top of your olive oil bottle, not something that’ll make a “glug.”
splash of sherry or red wine vinegar
*Optional: strawberries, especially if they’re slightly past ripe

DO NOT CHOP—half or quarter all veggies to give the right proportions. Put vegetables into blender in the above order, filling to the top with the tomatoes once all other vegetables are in. Blend for a couple seconds until everything’s mixed—taste test for salt and vinegar proportions. Tweak if need be. Then blend fully—longer than you expect—and put in fridge to chill for an hour or two if possible. Will keep 3-4 days, although the vinegar will get stronger over time.


No-tuna Salad

8 oz. cooked chickpeas
1 TBSP vegan mayonnaise
1 TBSP fresh lemon juice
2 green onions
2 stalks of celery
Handful of fresh dill

Capers OR something pickled (I like diced banana peppers)
Salt
Pepper
Crackers, cucumber slices, or whole wheat sandwich bread

Start by prepping the vegetables. Thinly slice the green onions and celery. Chop the dill until it is sprinkle-able. Now drain and rinse your chickpeas, and put them in a medium sized bowl (with room for the rest of the ingredients) with the mayo and lemon juice. Use a fork to mash the chickpeas against the side of the bowl until you have a coarse mix that holds together. Add the veggies, capers, salt, and pepper. The salad is wonderful in spoonfuls on top of thick cucumber slices, or crackers, or as a sandwich with your favorite veggies (lettuce, tomato, cucumber, red onion, etc.).


Raw Zucchini Balsamic Salad

Zucchini (1 small zucchini per serving)
Balsamic glaze
Red wine vinegar
Olive oil
1 clove Fresh garlic (if making 3 or more servings, add more)
Salt and pepper

Mandolin slice zucchini, either as rounds or as long strips. Crush garlic to a paste or use a garlic press. Mix garlic with balsamic glaze, slowly adding in red wine vinegar and salt until the dressing suits your liking and is both sweet from the glaze and has a bite from the red wine vinegar. Add in olive oil to your liking and dress the zucchini until it is well dressed but not soupy. Let sit at least 10 minutes before serving. 


Coconut Lentil Curry
Serves 6 (make the whole thing, trust me, you’ll want the leftovers)
Adapted from The Endless Meal

2 tablespoons ghee
1 tablespoon each: cumin seeds and coriander seeds
1 head of garlic, chopped (10–12 cloves)
1 28-ounce can of crushed tomatoes
2 tablespoons ginger, chopped
1 tablespoon turmeric
2 teaspoons sea salt
1 cup dried brown lentils
1 teaspoon cayenne powder
3 cups of water
1 15-ounce can coconut milk
1 bunch of a sturdy green, like Swiss chard or kale, chopped
chopped cilantro and greek yogurt to garnish

Heat the ghee in a large pot (I like an enamel dutch oven) over medium-high heat. Add the cumin and coriander seeds and toast until they start to brown, about 45 seconds. Add the garlic to the pot and let it brown, about two minutes. Add the can of crushed tomatoes, ginger, turmeric, and sea salt to the pot and cook, stirring the pot a few times, for five minutes. Add the lentils, cayenne powder, and the water to the pot and bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and let it simmer for 35-40 minutes, or until the lentils are soft. If the curry starts to look dry before the lentils are cooked you can add some extra water. Once the lentils are soft and the curry is thick, add the coconut milk and greens and bring the pot back to a simmer. Serve topped with cilantro and a dollop of greek yogurt over brown rice.


Egg Alfredo Noodles 

For when you want the comforting taste of a cream sauce but you also want protein, and for it to be one step. 

Pasta of your choice! Fresh, dried, whatever.
Eggs (1 per small serving)
Butter
1/2 lemon
Parmesan
Red pepper flakes
Fresh ground pepper
Salt

Cook pasta in well salted water until (al dente—don’t overcook!) according to package instructions. One serving per person– does not make good leftovers.  Beat one egg per serving and season it with salt and lots of pepper.  Save a quarter to half cup of pasta water when you strain. Return pasta to pot on lowest heat possible. Add in ample butter—noodles should be well-lubricated. Olive oil is okay in a pinch.  Add back in a tablespoon or two of pasta water.  Pour in eggs and stir slowly but constantly—heat should be low enough to cook the eggs slowly without forming clumps. Add in more pasta water if eggs are getting globby, and feel free to take off heat if you’re getting clumps. Keep stirring until eggs have cooked to the consistency of alfredo sauce. 

Serve immediately! Garnish with ample parmesan, lemon zest, lemon squeeze, red pepper flakes, and a sinful amount of cracked black pepper. 

This recipe can clearly be tailored for many things—add any veggies, meats, herbs you like!


Ricotta Spinach Manicotti
Serves 2-3 people
This one is a bit of work but worthwhile, especially during a pandemic quarantine. 

Tomato sauce:
Approximately 6-8 cups of halved Roma tomatoes
¾ cups red wine
1 large Spanish onion
⅓-½ c. Olive oil

Filling:
16 oz. ricotta
Two large bunches of spinach, err on the side of extra
1 cup curly parsley
4 garlic cloves
Olive oil
Coarse salt
Black pepper
2 TSP. Savory or Oregano

Pasta:
6-8 manicotti

Topping:
½ c. shredded Parmesan

This recipe is a bit heavy in the multi-tasking department and takes a while. For these reasons, please make your sauce in advance so you aren’t in the kitchen for a ridiculous amount of time all at once.

For the sauce:

The key to deliciousness here is the wine so don’t be shy!

Dice the onion and put in a dutch oven or big pot with the olive oil. Cook on medium heat until translucent and then add the wine (carefully! The alcohol will evaporate very quickly spattering the oil so pour from a distance). Cook further for 15 minutes, using your nose to confirm that you’ve cooked off all the alcohol. Then add the tomatoes. Cover and turn down to medium low heat. Cook for about 20 minutes. Uncover and stir your tomatoes, mashing them a little. Now you have to make a judgement call about the amount of moisture in your sauce: You want to cook the sauce for about 40 more minutes. If the tomatoes are really juicy, maybe you continue cooking uncovered. If the sauce is quite dry, perhaps leave the lid on for another 20 minutes and check in again. When the sauce has reached your desired consistency, add salt and pepper to taste. 

For the manicotti and filling:

Begin by putting 3-4 liters of water to boil in a large pot. Prep two 9” glass/ceramic dishes (or one, 13” dish) with olive oil and a bed of tomato sauce for the future Manicotti to sit on. You could also try using a heavy skillet, but maybe not cast iron because tomatoes are so acidic it might harm the pan/make your tomatoes taste like iron. I don’t think a thin sheet metal pan would be great for this, but do what you gotta do. 

While the water boils, set a large pan on low heat with a generous amount of olive oil (3-4 TBSP). Mince your garlic and toss into the warm oil. Bring up the heat to med-low and get to stemming and washing your spinach. Do a good job because nobody likes sandy Manicotti. Once washed, coarsely chop the spinach.

When the garlic is barely toasted put half the spinach in and stir. In a minute or so, that spinach will shrink making room for the rest. Stir occasionally and cook on med-low for 15-20 minutes. This slow cook will take a good amount of water out of the leaves which is important so that our manicotti aren’t swimming in spinach water after baking. 

While your spinach is cooking, the pasta water will come to a rolling boil–gently place the manicotti into the water and set a timer for 12 minutes (or an amount of time slightly less than that suggested on the pasta package). 

While these two things are going, grab a large mixing bowl and mix your ricotta, parsley, a generous splash of salt and pepper, and the Savory or Oregano. Mix in the spinach when it is ready. 

When your timer goes off, check out your pasta. It should be tender but quite al dante. Shut off the heat and set up a wide, shallow colander or plate. Gently take out the Manicotti from the water one at a time.  I use two wooden spoons to take the Manicotti out because they are very slippery and the grain of the wood helps you hold onto them without pinching too hard. They tend to split, so be gentle. Rinse under cool water so you can handle them.

You should now have a bowl of ricotta-spinach filling, cool and cooked manicotti, and dishes with tomato sauce. Now you stuff your pasta! I have no tips for this, I’m terrible at it, it is very messy. Maybe someone has a Nonna who can advise us. In any case, somehow you will manage to get your filling into the manicotti without tearing the noodles and place each one onto the tomato sauce. Once they are all filled and in the pan, dust with Parmesan and get ‘em into the oven! Bake at 350 F for 40-60 minutes. 


Rye Ginger Cookies
Makes about two dozen

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup rye flour (you can sub all-purpose or whole wheat if you don’t have rye flour, but consider buying some; rye crops return a lot of lost nutrients to soil!)
2 ½ teaspoons ground ginger
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon salt
¾ cup crystalized ginger cut in ¼ inch chunks
¾ cup sugar
1 cup almond butter
2 tbsp peanut oil
¼ cup butter
1 egg
1/4 cup date syrup (feel free to use molasses as an alternative)
2-3 tablespoons fresh grated ginger
*Optional: a high quality dark chocolate bar, chopped (I used one with almonds in it and loved the extra crunch.)

Whisk together the first seven dry ingredients in a bowl, then add the ginger chunks. Separately, cream the butter, oil, sugar, and nut butter; add the egg, date syrup, and grated ginger and mix well. Fold in the dry flour mixture followed by the chocolate chunks, if including. Chill for one hour.

Roll dough into balls roughly 1 ¼ inch in diameter, cook for 12 minutes in 350-degree oven. Cookies flatten out and end up staying chewy inside once cooled, with a slight crunch on outside.


Marmalade Whiskey Sour
Makes two

2 tablespoons marmalade of choice (I use homemade kumquat and meyer lemon, which is rather bitter)
¼ cup water
1 teaspoon honey
4 oz whiskey
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 egg white
2 Luxardo maraschino cherries (don’t bother with any other kind)

Make a simple syrup with the marmalade, water, and honey, then strain and cool. 

Shake the egg white in a shaker or mason jar until foamy as fuck. Then add the simple syrup, whiskey, lemon juice, and several ice cubes. Shake again well. Strain out ice and serve with cherry.

These ratios are all variable, and as written this makes a rather sour drink. If you like a sweeter drink, you may want to increase the amount of honey in the simple syrup, or leave out some lemon juice. You can also add some syrup from the cherry jar for a different twist. Play with it until you find your balance.

Pound of Rice in the Trash Can: Andrew Does the Dishes

by

Andrew Schwartz

Season Categories Published
MP00 Life Travel

Nov 24, 2013


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For three days now, a pile of honey-glazed carrots has sat on the table in the middle of my flat. It lies amongst the various fruits of my labor; to its right, yesterday’s cornflakes, by now stuck hard and fast to the bowl; to its left, a plate dyed brown from old stir fry, surrounded by a halo of rice grains that went overboard during the eating process. At the tables edge, an apple core browns; at its opposite, a banana peel blackens.

I’m living alone for the first time and I’m learning to cook. Bean and cheese quesadilla, microwaved to perfection and lathered with taco sauce has always been my specialty, but I’ve always wanted to expand on that and this is clearly my chance. I’ve been working on the fundamentals. I’ve developed two basic pastas, one with smoked salmon and onions, and the other with tomato sauce and onions; the ratio of my oil and vinegar salad dressing is slowly but surely oscillating closer and closer to the golden ratio; now when making my rice, I only need to consult Google once, max twice, for clarification. Poco a poco, they say.

The first thing I did when I moved into my flat was go grocery shopping. In the glory days of my youth, I loved grocery shopping with my mom. It was exhilarating, a rare taste of the wild-world of adulthood. Often, I would veer off, make-believe that I was doing the shopping for a family of my own, that I was the adult. For a few moments, all took on a surreal incandescence and the world expanded around me and I was in command; then something – maybe the sudden burst of the vegetable sprinklers upon my hand – would snap me out of the lull, and I’d remember that my real familial duty was to make sure mom got the right flavor of Goldfish.

As the doors of Mercadona parted before me, I laughed as I reminisced of this more innocent time. High school was done; now I was in Granada, the real world. I was an adult.

The carts at Mercadona are chained together, and in order to take one, you need to put a euro into a slot. Of course, when you return the cart, you get your euro back, but I didn’t know that and thought it a shameless and gratuitous money-grab by the Mercadona ownership. “Baloney!” I thought, and in a solitary gesture of rebellion, I instead took a basket to carry my months’ worth of food.

I didn’t have a list, but I got the things that I figured normal adults get. Oil, garlic, candles (I wasn’t content with my flat’s feng shui), that type of thing

Not wanting to only buy the “cheap stuff” and thus set a sorry precedent in my initial foray into real life, I instead opted for the middle-priced brands. I got almost no pre-prepared food, nothing even in a can. Everything was fresh and middle-high end. “You are what you eat,” I thought.

Three grocery bags to an arm, I strolled up the hill into the Albaycin, the old town where I live. There was not a single piece of dog shit on the cobblestone, and the cool mountain air whispered through the Darro valley below.

The kitchen in which the magic happens is illuminated by a single uncovered stale-white light bulb. There is an electric stove with two burners, placed just close enough together that it’s only possible to use one at a time. There is also a sink and an eight by eight inch area in which I cut and stir. I don’t like to do the dishes, so usually I have a couple days’ worth of crusty food and greasy plates stacked about as well.

At first I kept matters simple. Day one: basic pasta. Day two: chicken and rice. But these felt childish, immature, reminiscent of the youth I once was, and not befitting of the adult I had become. Day three, I got serious. My ambitions unfurled.

As a rule, Spanish food is quite mediocre. However, Pilar, the mother in the host family with which I lived my first month in Granada – she made some of the dank-a-dank.

My favorite dish of Pilar’s is called tortilla de patatas; it’s essentially a big pie of eggs and potatoes and whatever else you might want to throw in. She’d shown me her techniques, so I had an idea of the process, but now the training wheels were off.

In the first attempt, I made a rash judgment as to the status of the eggs, so when the crucial moment came – the flip of the pie – a molten liquid mush flew from the pan, to my wrist, to the burner, where I could only watch as it sizzled to the plump consistency for which the recipe originally called.

For my second effort a few nights later, I over-compensated, leaving the eggs on the burner too long, and again it was during the flip when all went awry; they stuck to the pan and smoldered, choking the kitchen with smoke. The next morning, my friendly Australian neighbor Susan asked me if I’d smelled something funny the night before. “A short circuit in this old Spanish wiring,” she supposed.

Recently, finally, third try, my tortilla de patatas landed intact onto my plate. A bonafide adult, I enjoyed it with steamed asparagus and a couple glasses of the La Atalaya that Susan left to me. If I’ve retained anything from her teachings, I would say it was a middle-palate wine with a Galician terroir. For the hors d’oeuvre, I had freshly baked bread and a garlic oil vinaigrette in which to dip it. For dessert, I had chocolate pudding. The next day, emboldened by my triumph, I thought I’d do something “out there” for lunch. I checked my All Recipes app for ideas, and sure enough, the very first meal on the day’s front-page beckoned. Even through the scratches on the iPhone screen, the honey-glazed carrots sparkled like a summertime lake.

It struck me as the type of thing only an exceptionally mature person would make for lunch. It sounded sexy too. “If I can make honey-glazed carrots that look like that,” I thought, “its game over for the chicas.”

I steamed my carrots; I melted my butter; I mixed my honey and lemon. I cut and I poured and I stirred and I watched and slowly, slowly, steadily, the glaze, the wonderful glaze, it claimed my carrots. There they were, sizzling away, wind through a forest of oaks. Just as it began to seem as though the carrots were themselves producing the light of which they merely reflected, that some kind of fission was taking place deep within their core, the mid-afternoon Granadine sun did pour forth through my windows and onto the table at which I would enjoy my creation. I scooped the carrots onto my plate, and walked them into to the light. Their glow intensified still. A pure, uncut pride enveloped me as I grasped my fork and stabbed this validation of my profound competence as a human being in this world, my maturity, my undeniable adulthood.

Then the sprinklers turned on.

Not even the most youthful of imaginations would be able to reconcile this urgent message of my senses with what my mind had been feeling just moments before. Empirical reality ain’t got time for make-believe.

My honey-glazed carrots were not the worst thing I’d ever eaten. The taste was somewhere between a fermented grape and candied yam caked in salt. I had two bites, and tried to convince myself that there were redeeming qualities yet, but when my body literally would not permit a third, I knew I was only kidding myself. I slumped down in my chair; I pushed my honey glazed carrots away in disgust; I got up to make myself a sandwich.

Three days later, appearance is now somewhat more aligned with reality. The carrots have shriveled and lost their shine; they look like apricots except with a more potent orange, like the color of a traffic cone. They are still soggy to the touch; they feel a lot like how I’d imagine an ear drum would.

I’m not sure why I haven’t thrown them away yet. They don’t smell bad or anything, but I’m pretty sure I’m not going to eat them, and I don’t think they’d impress a chica to the degree that I’d initially hoped. Perhaps it’s my heroic aversion to wastefulness; perhaps it’s that for a brief moment, I saw in their concept an idealized vision of my future self; perhaps it’s because my trash can is already overflowing and I’m too lazy to empty it.

Maybe I’m not yet ready for honey glazed carrots. That’s fine by me; I suppose you can’t rush the learning process. For now, it’s to the Pescaderia, where I’ll spend five minutes angrily insisting that I’m saying salmon, and not jamon; then it’s back through the Albaycin, where I’ll step in dog shit while admiring the first-snow atop the soft peaks of the Sierra Nevada; then it’s to the kitchen, where I’ll clean up the old dishes, put on some Govi, and set to work, imagination gone wild, determined to cut my garlic finer than ever; then it’s to the table, where I´ll take a bite, and the memories of mom’s mashed potatoes will boil up and spill over like my pasta always does, and I’ll wonder why I’d ever wanted to make anything more than a bean and cheese quesadilla, microwaved to perfection and lathered with taco sauce.